Winding streets with idyllic houses, pretty courtyards tucked out of sight and historic landmarks in close proximity make Beirut ideal for exploring on foot. Kathryn Roberts slips on her shoes and walks her way around this vibrant capital city

There’s something wonderfully charming about Beirut. For many it’s the quaint cafés and restaurants in the popular neighbourhood of Gemmayzeh, the European-style houses on the backroads of Hamra and Manara or the designer boutiques that pepper the recently renovated, super-stylish Downtown district. For others, it’s all of the above, and much, much more. Brimming with a fascinating history, beautiful architecture, great food and outstanding natural beauty, Beirut is a feast for the senses. And at just 67 square kilometres, it’s ideal for exploring on foot, too. Knowing where to begin, however, all depends on what you want to see or do. To get you started, we’ve trekked the length and breadth of city to bring you the very best ways to tour the culturally rewarding destination on foot.

FOR SCENERY...
Located on the edge of the Mediterranean and with the majestic peaks of Mount Lebanon forming a dramatic backdrop, Beirut is astonishingly beautiful.
Wherever you’re staying, stroll along the 4.8km-long corniche that hugs the coastline from Saint George Bay in the north to Rafic Hariri Avenue in the south west. Popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists, the promenade has a relaxed vibe and uninterrupted views of the water.
An absolute must-see are Pigeon Rocks (left), off General de Gaulle Avenue in the west. These two huge formations rise proudly out of the water, providing excellent photo opportunities and a wealth of fun for those who choose to take a speedboat through the archway of the largest rock.
More natural beauty can be found at Jeita Caves (below). Located in the Nahr al Kalb valley, 11km to the northeast of Beirut, they are only accessible by car. On arrival, however, there are several walking tours of the upper and lower grottos, home to formidable stalactites, stalagmites, ponds and limestone curtains.



Finally, the mountain village of Harissa is home to Our Lady of Lebanon. This prominent pilgrimage site features a huge 15-tonne bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, with a small chapel underneath.
Drive to the Téléférique cable car at the foot of the mountain and take the five-minute ride to the top before walking up the short set of steps to the statue and admiring the huge Maronite cathedral next door as well as the truly spectacular view of the bay of Jounieh.

FOR CULTURE...
Beirut has a rich history dating back more than 5,000 years. Originally called Berytus, the city was mentioned in tablets sent to the Egyptian pharaoh in the 14th century BC. Excavations in the Downtown area have revealed Phoenician, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Crusader and Ottoman remains. Find out more about these intriguing periods at the National Museum of Beirut, which marks the start of our cultural walking tour.
After viewing historically significant pieces including a marble torso from Roman times and a second-century sarcophagus depicting the legend of Achilleus (left), leave the museum and turn right onto Damascus Street.
Walk for about 10 minutes until you reach the corner of Independence Avenue. Stop and admire the neo-Ottoman architecture of Beit Beirut, a derelict building undergoing renovation and set to open in 2013 as a museum and urban cultural centre.
Continue along Damascus Street for another 10 minutes to Bechara Khoury Road. Here, keep walking north towards the corniche and you will see a bronze statue marking Martyrs Square, Lebanon’s most famous congregation point. This is where the Lebanese singer Fayrouz performed in 1994 in a concert that symbolised unity and peace after the civil war. Today the country enjoys political stability, but battle scars, including bullet holes in the statue and elsewhere in the city, offer a fascinating glimpse into conflicts of the past.
From Martyrs Square walk across the road to the towering Al Amine Mosque. This beautiful building with its striking blue-domed roof is inspired by the Ottoman era and copies the Sultan Ahmed Mosque in Istanbul.
Continue west along Amir Bashir Street. To your right, note five Roman columns, remnants of a second-century market, discovered in 1963 next to the Maronite Cathedral of Saint George. Just a two-minute walk ahead, turn right onto Maarad Street which leads to the centre of Downtown.
Pass cafés, boutiques and souvenir shops before reaching Place d’Etoile thought to stand on the forum of the Roman city. Soak up the cosmopolitan vibe and admire the fully restored Ottoman and French-era buildings.
Rest weary legs and enjoy a refreshing lemonade and mint at any one of the street-side cafés. Then, batteries recharged, head west to the Roman Baths. These fascinating excavations are divided into three rooms with a series of short stone pillars that heated raised floors from hot water that flowed around them. Preserved today as an archaeological garden, the baths are also home to traces of mosaics and a large stone basin.

FOR SHOPPING...
Fashionistas are spoilt for choice in Beirut. If it’s luxury labels you’re after, walk the narrow, cobbled streets of Downtown (below) and discover high-end brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Christian Louboutin and Hugo Boss. The romantic setting makes it easy to spend a whole afternoon admiring the architecture between strolls in and out of shops.
High-street brands can be found on bustling Al Hamra Street. Walk the length of the road and stumble upon the likes of H&M and Vero Moda.
For indoor shopping Beirut Mall and Le Mall both offer a more modern experience with a multitude of affordable fashion, electronics, homeware and gifts.

FOR NIGHTLIFE...
With thriving nightlife, Beirut is the party capital of the Middle East.
The latest hotspot is Uruguay Street, located directly behind Samir Kassir Square in Downtown. Bistro bars line the pedestrianised road, and, with tables perched outside, it’s not uncommon to see crowds of revellers spilling onto the cobbled street.
Start at Irish bar Patrick’s before taking in new spots such as Cassis, Tinto, Zucca and The Bronx. Tucked behind Uruguay Street is the impossibly chic cocktail bar Iris. Hang out with the cream of Beirut society at this stylish rooftop lounge.
Alternatively, take a 10-minute walk to Monot Street with fashionable bars and clubs at every corner.
For a slice of old school, head to Gemmayzeh, Beirut’s artistic bohemian quarter. Although walking from Downtown only takes about 15 minutes, we recommend you catch a cab to Gouraud Street, the main road, and meander past quaint bars and restaurants, stopping at any one of your choice. Of note are Bar Louie, Zeus and The Angry Monkey, known for great live music.

We stayed at the Gefinor Rotana on Clemenceau Street and the Raouché Arjaan by Rotana on General de Gaulle Avenue. Just a five-minute walk from the corniche, the Gefinor Rotana offers sweeping views across the Mediterranean while the Raouché Arjaan by Rotana provides one of the best views of Pigeon Rocks. A third property, the Tamar Rotana, is located in Hadeth Beirut, 10 minutes from Downtown.